April
3, 1778
and who cared not half so much for Us, as they did for their flocks and
herds. The Inhumanity too, with which they conducted the War, betrayed such a
Contempt of Us and [as] human Nature could not endure. Not
only hiring European Mercenaries, but instigating Indians and corrupting Domesticks as if We were fit for nothing but to be cutt to Pieces by Savages and Negroes. Americans would not
submit to these Things, merely from Prophecies and precarious Speculations
about the Protestant Interest and the ballance of
Power in
Europe. This Conversation was extended into a much wider field
of discussion and was maintained on both Sides with entire civility and
good humour, till I took leave of Mr. Le
Texier and retired to my Lodgings. Twenty months afterwards passing
through
Bourdeaux in my journey from Ferrol to
Paris, Mr. Le Texier called upon me again And I
found was still embarrassed with the same Prejudices and Scruples. But as I had
not time to enlarge I only said I was surprized to
find him still think it possible that We should ever come under the Government
of England again when the Affections of the People were entirely
alienated from it and We had pledged our Faith to
France to maintain our Independence, an Engagement that would be
sacredly fullfilled.
During my Delay at
Bourdeaux, Mr. McCrery informed me in
Confidence, that he had lately come from
Paris where he had been sorry to perceive a dryness between the
American Ministers Franklin,
Deane and Lee. Mr.
McCrery was very cautious and prudent but he gave me fully to
Understand that the animosity was very rancorous, and had divided all the
Americans and all the french People connected with Americans or American
Affairs into Parties very bitter against each other. This Information gave me
much disquietude as it opened a prospect of perplexities to me that I supposed
must be very disagreable. Mr.
Lee, Mr. Izard, Dr. Bancroft and
others whom Mr. McCrery named, were entire Strangers to me,
but by reputation. With Dr. Franklin I had served one Year and
more in Congress.Mr. Williams I had known in
Boston. The French Gentlemen were altogether unknown to me. I
determined to be cautious and impartial, knowing however very well the
difficulty and the danger of Acting an honest and upright Part in all such
Situations.
Page 2
April 4. Saturday. 1778.
About ten O Clock We commenced our Journey to
Paris and went about fifty miles. Mr.
Vernon chose to remain at
Bourdeaux.
April 5. Sunday. 1778.
Proceeded on our Journey more than an hundred Miles.
Mor April 6. Monday
1778.
Arrived at
Poictiers, the City so famous for the Battle which was fought
here. It is a beautiful Situation, and the Cultivation of the plains about it,
appeared to me exquisite. The Houses were old and poor and the Streets very
narrow. In the afternoon passed through
Chattellerault, another City nearly as large as
Poictiers, and as old and the Streets as narrow. When We stopped
at the Post, to change our Horses, about twenty young Women came about the
Carriage with their elegant Knives, Scissors &c., to sell. The Scne was new to me and highly diverting. Their
Eagerness to sell a Knife, was as great as I had seen before and have seen
since in other Countries to obtain Offices. We arrived in the Evening at
Orms, the magnificent Seat of the Marquiss D'Argenson. It is needless to make
particular remarks upon this Country. Every Part of it is cultivated. The
Fields of Grain, the Vineyards, the Castles, the Cities, the Parks, the
Gardens, must be seen to be known. Every Thing is beautiful, yet except the
Parks there is a great Scarcity of Trees. A Country of Vinyards without Trees,
has to me always an Appearance of poverty: and every place swarms with Beggars,
the Reason of which I suppose is because the Poor depend upon private Charity
for Support, instead of being provided for by Parishes as in
England or Towns in
America.
April 7. Tuesday 1778.
We travelled from
Les Ormes, the splendid Seat of the Marquis
D'Argenson, to Mer. We passed through [illegible]
Tours,
Amboise and several small Villages.
Tours was the most elegant Place We had yet seen. It stands on
the River Loire which passes through
Nantes to the Sea. We rode upon a Causey made in the River
Loire, for many miles. The Meadows and River Banks were very beautifull.
April 8th. Wednesday 1778.
We rode through
Orleans, and arrived at
Paris about nine O Clock. For thirty miles from
Paris the Road was paved and the Scnes were delightfull.
On our Arrival at a certain Barrier We were stopped and searched and paid
the Duties for about twenty five Bottles, of Wine which were left, of the
Page 3
generous present of Mr. Delap at
Bourdeaux. We passed the Bridge over the River Seine, and went
through the
Louvre. The Streets
crouded with
Carriages with a multitude of Servants in Liveries.
At
Paris We went to several Hotells which
were full; particularly the
Hotel D'Artois, and the
Hotel Bayonne. We were then advised to the
Hotel de Valois, Rue de Richelieu, where We
found Entertainment, but We could not have it, without taking all Chambers upon
the Floor, which were four in number, very elegant and richly furnished, at the
small price of two Crowns and an half a day without any thing to eat or drink.
I took the Apartments only for two or three days, and sent for Provisions to
the Cooks. Immediately on our Arrival We were called upon for our Names, as We
had been at Mrs. Rives's at
Bourdeaux. My little Son had
sustained this long Journey of nearly five hundred miles, at the rate of an
hundred miles a day, with the utmost firmness, as he did our fatiguing and
dangerous Voyage.
April 9. Thursday. 1778.
Though the City was very silent and still in the latter part of the night,
the Bells, Carriages and Cries in the Street, were noisy enough in the
morning.
Went in a Coach to
Passy with Dr. Noel and my
Son. [We visited] Dr.
Franklin with whom I had served the best part of two Years in Congress
in great Harmony and Civility, and there had grown up between Us that kind of
Friendship, which is commonly felt between two members of the same public
Assembly, who meet each other every day not only in public deliberations, but
at private Breakfasts, dinners and Suppers, and especially in secret
confidential Consultations, and who always agreed in their Opinions and
Sentiments of public affairs. This had been the History of my Acquaintance
with Franklin and he received me accordingly with great
apparent Cordiality.Mr. Deane was gone to
Marseilles to embark with D'Estaing
for
America. Franklin undertook the care
of Jesse Deane, as I suppose had been agreed between him and
the Childs Father before his departure. And he was soon sent, with my Son
and Dr. Franklins Grandson Benjamin Franklin
Bache, whom as well as William
Franklin whom he called his Grandson, the Dr. had brought with him
from America, to the Pension of Mr. Le Coeur at
Passy.
Dr. Franklin presented to me the Compliments of Mr.
Turgot the late
Page 4
Controuler of the Finances and a very
pressing Invitation to dine with him. Though I was not very well accoutered to
appear in such Company I was persuaded and concluded to go. I went
with Dr. Franklin and Mr. Lee, and dined with
this Ex Minister. The
Dutchess D'Anville, the Mother of the Duke
de la Rochefoucault, and twenty others of the Great People of
France were there. I thought it odd that the first Lady I should
dine with in
France should happen to be
the Widow
of our Great
Ennemy who commanded a kind of Armada
against Us, within my Memory: but I was not the less pleased with her
Conversation for that. She appeared to be venerable for her Years, and several
of her Observations at Table, full as I thought of bold, masculine and original
Sense were translated to me. The House, Gardens, Library, Furniture, and
Entertainment of the Table, appeared very magnificent to me, who had yet seen
but little of
France, and nothing at all of any other part of
Europe. Mr. Turgot had the Appearance and
deportment of a grave, wise and amiable Man. I was very particularly examined
by the Company through my Colleagues and
Interpriters Franklin and Lee concerning
American Affairs. I should have been much better pleased to have been permitted
to remain less conspicuous: but I gave to all their Inquiries the most concise
and clear Answer I could and came off, for the first time I thought, well
enough. Returned and supped with Franklin on Cheese and
Beer.
Dr. Franklin had shewn me the Apartements and Furniture left by Mr.
Deane, which were every Way more elegant, than I desired, and
comfortable and convenient as I could wish. Although Mr.
Deane in Addition to these had a House, furniture and Equipage in
Paris, I determined to put my Country to no further expence on my Account but to take my Lodgings under the
same Roof with Dr. Franklin and to Use no other Equipage than
his, if I could avoid it. This House was called the The Basse Court
de Monsieur Le Ray de Chaumont, which was to be sure, not a
Title of great Dignity for the Mansion of Ambassadors though they
were no more than American Ambassadors. Nevertheless it had been nothing less
than the famous
Hotel de Vallentinois, with a Motto over the Door Si sta bene,
non se move, which I thought a good rule for my Conduct. If you stand well do
not move; or stand still.