Walked round the Town to see the Parliament which was sitting, where We
heard but understood not the Counsel, then to see the Council and chamber of
Commerce. Then We went round to the Ship Yards, made many Visits, dined at
the Hotel D'Angleterre, visited the Custom house, the Post
Office, the
Chatteau Trompette a famous Fortification of Vaubans and its
Commandant. Then visited the Premier President of the Parliament of
Bourdeaux. Here I met a reception that was not only polite
and
respectfull but really tender and seemingly
affectionate. He asked Permission to embrace me A la francaise. He said he had
long felt for me an Affection resembling that of a Brother. He had pitied me
and trembled for me, and was cordially rejoiced to see me. He could not avoid
sympathizing with every sincere friend of Liberty in the World. He knew that I
had gone through many dangers and Sufferings in the cause of Liberty, and had
felt for me in them All. He had reason he said to feel for the Sufferers in the
Cause of Liberty, because he had suffered many Years in that cause himself. He
had been banished for cooperating with Mr. Malsherbs, and the
other Courts and Parliaments of the Kingdom in the time of Louis the
fifteenth, for their Remonstrances against the arbitrary Conduct and
pernicious Edicts of the Court &c. He envied the Count de
Viralade his Son the pleasure, that he intended himself by
accompanying me that Evening to the Commedy. But the Parliament was sitting and
the press of Business rendered it impossible. Otherwise he should certainly
attend me himself. Mr. Bondfield had to interpret all this
Effusion of Compliments and I thought it never would come to an End. But it did
and I concluded upon the whole there was a fund of Sincerity in it decorated
and almost suffocated with French Compliments. Then We went to the Coffee
House, then to the Comedie where We saw the two Misers (Les deux Avares). After
which We supped with Messieurs
Reuilles
[Reculs] De Basmarein
and Raimbeaux. Here I expected nothing but a common Supper and
a small Company; but found myself much disappointed. Among many others in a
large Company of both Sexes, were the Count de Viralade, the
eldest Son of the first President whom I had just visited. Le
Moine, the first Commissary of the Navy, Le Moine his
Son a Commissary of the Navy. Cornie a Captain
Page 2
in
the Navy and a Knight of Saint Louis. John Baptiste
Nairac, a Deputy of commerce from
LaRochelle. Paul Nairac a
Merchant.Elisee Nairac a Merchant. La Tour
Feger a Merchant; Menoire a Merchant,
Conturier a Merchant, and many others with their Ladies; and
Mr. Bondfield and Major Fraser. The Company
their dresses, Equipages, and the furniture were splendid and the Supper very
sumptuous. The Conversation at and after Supper was very gay,
and
animated,
andchearfull and good humoured
as it appeared to my Eyes and Ears and feelings but my Understanding had no
Share in it. The Language was altogether incomprehensible. The Company were
more attentive to me, then I desired; for they often addressed Observations and
questions to me, which I could only understand by the Interpretation of
Mr. Bond
[Bondfield], and the returns of
civility on my part could only be communicated
[to] me
through the same Channel, a kind of conviviality so
tdious and irksome, that I had much rather have
remained in silent Observation and Reflection. One Anecdote I will relate,
because among many others I heard in
Bourdeaux it was Characteristic of the manners at that time. One
of the most elegant Ladies at Table, young and handsome,
tho married to a Gentleman in the Company, was pleased to
Address her discourse to me. Mr. Bondfield must interpret the
Speech which he did in these Words "
Mr. Adams, by
your Name I conclude you are descended from the first Man and Woman, and
probably in your family may be preserved the tradition which may resolve a
difficulty which I could never explain. I never could understand how the first
Couple found out the Art of lying together?" Whether her phrase was L'Art de se
coucher ensemble, or any other more energetic, I know not, but Mr.
Bondfield rendered it by that I have mentioned. To me, whose
Acquaintance with Women had been confined to
America, where the manners of the Ladies were universally
characterised at that time by Modesty, Delicacy and Dignity, this question was
surprizing and shocking: but although I believe
at first I blushed, I was determined not to be disconcerted. I thought it would
be as well for once to set a brazen face against a brazen face and answer a
fool according to her folly, and accordingly composing my countenance into an
Ironical Gravity I answered her "Madame My Family resembles the first Couple
both in the name and in their frailties
so much that I have no doubt
We are descended from that in Paradise. But the Subject was perfectly
understood by Us, whether by tradition I could not tell: I rather thought it
was by Instinct, for there was a Physical quality in Us resembling
Page 3
the Power of
the Magnet Electricity or of the Magnet, by
which when a Pair approached within a striking distance they flew together like
the Needle to the Pole or like two Objects in electric Experiments." When this
Answer was explained to her, she replied "Well I know not how it was, but this
I know it is a very happy Shock." I should have added "in a
lawfull Way" after "a striking distance," but if I had her
Ladyship and all the Company would only have thought it Pedantry and
Bigottry. This
is a decent Story in
comparison with many which I heard in Bourdeaux, in the short
time I remained there, concerning married Ladies of Fashion and reputation. The
decided Advances made by married Women, which I heard related, gave rise to
many reflections in my mind which may perhaps be detailed hereafter on some
similar Occasions. The first was if such a
[are] the manners
of Women of Rank, Fashion and Reputation
[in]
France, they can never support a Republican Government nor be
reconciled with it. We must therefore take great care not to import them into
America.
In Compliment to
America this Company introduced a List of Toasts in our fashion
which was an entire novelty at
Bourdeaux. They gave Mr. Bondfield a Copy which
he translated for me into English. The Toasts were announced by thirteen Guns
in honor of the thirteen States, for then We had no more. Then the King of
France twenty one Guns. The Congress, thirteen. General
Washington Three. Mr. De Sartine, three.
General Gates three. Marshall Broglie Three.
The Count De Broglie his Brother, three. The Marquis de
La Fayette three. The Glory and Prosperity of the thirteen
United States, Thirteen. The Prosperity of France
three. Eternal Concord between the two Nations now Friends and Allies, three.
The State of
Massachusetts and its Representative Mr.
Adams. Mr. D'Estaing Vice Admiral. The City
of
Bourdeaux. Mrs. Adams three. The French and
American Ladies Twenty one. The Departure of Mr. Adams when he
ascended his Coach, was saluted by thirteen Guns. The Garden was beautifully
illuminated, with an Inscription God Save the Congress, Liberty and
Adams.