SEPTR. 14 -- [6 OCTOBER]
Septr. 14 Mr. Thaxter took
his Leave of me to return to
America, with the definitive Treaty of Peace and the original
Treaty with the States General. -- I had been some days unwell, but soon fell
down in a Fever. Sir James Jay, who was my Physician,
gave me a vomit, &c. &c.
On the 22d of September, I removed from the grand Hotel du Roi, to
Mr. Barclays at
Auteuil, where I have continued to this Sixth day of October
Mr. Thaxter sailed in the Packet, from
L'Orient, or rather from the Island of Groa
[Groix], on the 26 of Septr.
with a good Wind.
At first I rode twice a day in my Carriage, in the Bois de Boulogne but
afterwards I borrowed Mr. Jays Horse, and have generally
ridden twice a day, untill I have made
my self Master of this curious Forest.
The Pavillon of Bagatelle, built by Mgsr. Comte
Castle of Madrid. The Outlet of the Forest near Pont Neuilly,
the Porte which opens into the Grand Chemin, the
Castle of Muet [La Muette] at
Passy. The Porte which opens to the great Road to
Versailles. The other Porte which opens into a large Village,
nearly opposite to St. Cleod [Cloud], are the most
remarkable Objects in this Forest.
AUTEUIL OCTOBER 7. 1783.
I am now lodged in Mr. Barclays House, which he hires of
the Comte de [Rouault].
There is a large Garden, full of all Vegetables and Fruits as Grapes, Pears,
Peaches. There is besides a large Flower Garden.
From the Windows in my Chamber and more distinctly, from those of the
Chambers, one Story higher, you have a View of the
Village of Isis [Issy], of the
Castle Royal of Muydon [Meudon], of the
Pallace of Belle Ve, of the
Castle of the Duke of Orleans at St.
Cleod and of Mont Calvare. Upon the Bank of the River Seine, at the Foot of the
Hill, on which stands the Palace of Belle Ve, is a Glass House, which
smoakes night and Day. But in the Night, it blazes at
every Window and exhibits a very gay appearance.
Opposite to St. Cleod, is the
Village of Boulogne, from whence the Grove or Forest takes its
Name. This Wood merits a particular Description.
From Mr. Barclays House, where I now am, I go to the Gate,
you enter the Bois de Boulogne, from the
Village of Auteuil. I turn to the left and follow the Path,
which runs in sight of the Stone Wall of 12 feet high which bounds the
I come to a
Gate which they call Porte Royal, out of which you go to
Versailles. From this Gate I follow the Path which runs near the
Boundary Stone Wall, untill
I come to the Gate which
opens into the
Village of Boulogne. I pursue to this Path by the Wall
I come to the Pavillon of Bagatelle, belonging
to the Comte D'Artois. The Estate of the
Comte is seperated
Forest only by a Treillage or a kind of Picketted
Wooden Fence. Having passed the Bagatelle you come to the
Royal Castle of Madrid, passing this you go out of the Wood into
the Grand Chemin, by the Gate called Porte Neuilly, near the new Bridge of that
Name. But by following the Path in Sight of the Stone Wall which seperates the
from the Grand Chemin, you come to the Gate,
which is called Porte Maillot, at the Plain de Sablons. By following the Grand
Road from this Gate, you come to
Royal Castle of Muet, at
Passy, near which is the Gate by which you enter the Forest from
Passy. By following the Path near the Stone Wall, which bounds
the Wood, You come to the Gate, at
Auteuil, by which We first entered the Forest.
Near the Center of the Forest, is a Circle, of clear Ground, on which are no
Trees or Shrubbs. From the Center of this Circle,
proceed Avenues in all Directions. One goes to the Porte Royale, another to the
Village of Boulogne, another to the
Castle of Madrid, another to the
Castle of Muet at
Passy, and another to the Gate of
In riding over this Forrest, you see some neat
Cattle, some Horses, a few Sheep, and a few Deers, Bucks, Does and Fawns, now
and then a Hare and sometimes a few Patridges. But Game is not plenty in this
In this Village of
Auteuil, is the Seat of the famous Boileau. It is in the Rue des
Garrennes. I have been twice to see it. The Gardener has not the Keys of the
, so that I could not see the Inside
of the House: But the Gardiner
me the Stables, Coach House, and all the
Outhouses, and the Garden, which is very large, containing perhaps five or six
Acres. It is full of Flowers and of Roots and Vegetables of all Kinds, and of
Fruits. Grapes of several sorts and of excellent Quality. Pears, Peaches
&c. But every Thing suffers for want of Manure. There is an Acre or two of
Ground, without the Garden Fence which belongs to the Estate, which affords
Pasture for a Cow, but the Land is poor.
There is an Head of Boileau over the Door, behind the House, and the Heads
of two Children, one on each Side of the Door, which are said to be the heads
of two Children of his Gardiner, that he was fond
of, and ordered to be placed there near him.
The Estate now belongs to Madame Binet, who advertises it
for Sale, and it is said asks forty five Thousand Livres for it. She declines
letting it, or I should have hired it.
The Principal People in this
Village of Auteuil, are Madam Helvetius, who
lives but a few Doors from this House, Madame Boufleurs, who
lives opposite, &c.
OCTOBER 20. MONDAY.
Set out with my Son and one Servant, Leveque, on a journey
London. We went from
Auteuil, thro the Bois de Boulogne,
and went out at the Port de Maillot to St. Dennis, where We took Post Horses.
We dined at
Chantilly, and lodged at Night at St. Just.
Dined at Amiens, and put up, at night, at Abbeville. The Roads are the best
I have ever seen in
France. They are not paved, or if they are, the Pavement is
covered, with Flynt Stones. They Pick up in the
neighbouring Fields, a Species of small
Flynt Stones, which they lay along in heaps on the
Side of the Road, and with these they mend the high Ways from time to time. The
Wheels of the Carriages crushes them to Dust, and they made admirable
There are no Vines, on this Road. The Country is all sown with Wheat. They
are every where, cutting up by the Roots the Elms
and other Forest Trees, which formerly grew were planted on the
Sides of the Roads and introducing Apple Trees in their stead. We found Tea
Apparatus's generally in the publick houses, and the
hand Irons, Tongs &c. and several other Things more in the English Style
than you find in other Parts of
OCTR. 22. WEDNESDAY.
Calais. Dined at Boulogne Sur mer. Put up at Mr.
Went on board the Packet at Nine, put off from the wharf at Ten, but had
such contrary Winds and Calms, that We did not arrive at
Dover untill 3 O'Clock next Morning. I
was 18 hours on the Passage. The Packet was 17. She could not come in to the
Harbour, made Signals for a Boat, which carried Us
ashore for five shillings a head.
I was never before so Sea sick, nor was my Son. My Servant was very bad.
Allmost all the Passengers were sick. It is a
remarkable Place for it. We are told that many Persons Masters of
Vessells and others who were never Sea sick before
have been very bad in making this Passage.
We are lodged at
Dover, at the Royal Hotel Inn, kept by Charles
Mariee. On the Backside of his house is one of the Dover Cliffs; it is
an high Mountain, and at this Place is perpendicular, and there is an
Appearance of Danger that the Rocks at Top, might split off by their own
Weight, and dash to Pieces some of the small brick Houses at its Foot. -- White
I walked round with my Son to the Coach road, and ascended to the Top of
this Mountain. It is very steep. It is covered with a thick Sward, and with a
Verdure quite to the Top. Upon the Top of the Mountain, there is a plowed
Field, sown with Turnips, which look very vigorous. I went into the
ploughed ground to examine its Composition, and found
it full of Flynt Stones, such as the Road from
Calais is made of, and all the Fields on that road are full of.
In short the White Stone of the Cliffs, and the Flynt
Stone of the Fields, convince me that the Lands here are the same with those on
the other Side of the Channell and but a
Continuation of the same Soil. From this Mountain, We saw the whole Channel,
the whole Town and harbour of
Dover. The Harbour is but a Basin and
the Town, but a little Village. We saw three small Vessells on the Stocks, building or repairing, and fifteen
or twenty small Craft, Fishing Sloops and schooners chiefly in the
harbour. It has not the Appearance of a Place of any
Business at all. No Manufacture, No Commerce, and no Fishery of any
The Sheep here are very large, and the Country all around has a Face of
Verdure and Fertility beyond that of
France in general: but this is owing no doubt to the difference
of Cultivation. The Valleys only in
France look rich, Plains and Mountains look meagre. Here the Mountain is rich.
The Channell between this and
Calais, is full of Vessells, french
and English, fishing for Herrings. The Sardine are not caught here.
Went in a Post Chaise, from
Rochester, &c. to
Dartford, where We lodged.
London and the Post Boy carried Us to the Adelphi Buildings in
the Strand, to John's Street.
We are at Osbornes Adelphi hotel. I am obliged here to give Thirteen
Shillings a day, for a Parler, a bed Chamber, and
another Bed Chamber over it for my Son, without any dining Room or Antichamber.
This is dearer than my Lodgings at the Hotel du Roi in
Paris -- half a Guinea for my bed Chamber and Parlour, and half a Crown for my Sons bed Chamber. My
Servants Lodging is included in the half Guinea. The Rooms and Furniture are
more to my Taste than in
Paris, because they are more like what I have been used to in
OCTOBER 27. MONDAY.
Went to see Mr. Jay who is lodged with Mr.
Bingham, in Harley Street, Cavendish Square, No. 30. And in the Afternoon went to see Mr.
Johnson, Great Tower Hill, who informed me that a Vessell with 1000 Hogsheads of Tobacco is passed by, in the
Channel, from Congress to Messrs. Willinks. I gave
Mr. Johnson his Letter, as I had left Mr.
Hartleys for him at his House, who is gone into the Country, to Bath
as he says.
These Adelphi Buildings are well situated on the Thames. In sight of the
Terrace is Westminster Bridge one Way, and Black Fryars Bride on the other. St.
Pauls is by Black Fryars Bridge.