Diary of John Quincy Adams, volume 1
I left Corunna to the time
I arrived at Astorga.
1779-12-26
Their were three Carriages all drawn by Mules, two at each carriage and each carriage carries two persons except one which carries three. The three servant's Andrew1 Mr. Allen's, John Mr. Dana's, and Stevens My Pappa's rode a Mule back as also did our Guide whose name is Martin, Mr. Lagoanere rode on a horse belonging to him. And thus equipped our caravan set out. In the first carriage was Mr. Allen and Sammy Cooper. One of their Mules had near a Hundred little bells tied round it's neck. Next Mr. Dana, and Mr. Thaxter, one of theirs had some bells but not many. And lastly My Pappa, brother Charles and Myself. Neither of our Mules had any bells. We pass'd I beleive almost 20 crosses. We came about 3 leagues and a half good way and the other half a league was very bad and muddy. I forgot to say that our first stage was 12 Miles off of Corrunna; at about 7 o clock we arrived at a village call'd Betancos. We found a place to lodge for once not among the Mules, however I beleive that we sha'nt have that to boast of long. This city of Betancos otherwise Betanzos was formerly the Capital of the province of Galicia which is to this day call'd the Kingdom of Galicia. We have right against our lodgings a large Church. This also is the place where the archives otherwise call'd records of this province are kept at present.
La Sensible. Upon arrival in Spain and with that officer's
consent, he served Allen on the journey from El Ferrol to Bordeaux (JA to the
Governor of La Coruña, 18 Dec. 1779;
JA to Andrew Dismié, 15 May
1780, both LbC, Adams
Papers).
1779-12-27
This morning at six o clock our ears were assaulted by “Tis time to get up.” If the Guide
had not have kept his time the bells of the Church opposite us would have kept the time for
him, for about a Quarter of an hour after we got up they begun to ring and rung for about a
half an hour. Our Muletiers all went to Mass but we were not much obliged to them for it.
However, let them do as they please, for I beleive that is the best way. Mr. Lagoanere 20says that there are two convents for men (the Dominican and the
Franciscan) and two Nunneries for women. The one which is opposite us is the Dominican. Mr.
Lagoanere also says that St. Yago1 is the
Capital of this province by name because the body of St. James was buried there and because
the Archbishop is there at present but Corunna is actually the Capital And the Governor of
the province and the audience are there. The building in which the archives are kept, is
over against us. It is a large building and is not unlike one of the Colleges at Cambridge.
The orders of Nuns I do not know; they have besides these a parish Church, but the Carriages
are ready and I must go. There is but one Nunnery of women which is of the order of
Augustines. At 8 o clock Mr. Lagoanere took leave of us all and we set out. We pass'd
several prodigious mountains and passing over one of them the Axletree of one of our
carriages broke and we were obliged to let it stay to have the Axletree mended. We proceeded
on and stopt at a Miserable Cottage. In the Chamber Where they put us there was straw,
chests, grain, barrels, and chestnuts but however I expect to see more of this yet. We saw a
very high rock and on the top of
Santiago de Compostela, located about 30 miles south by west of La Coruña, well off the
route to France traveled by JA and his party. From medieval times Santiago was
one of the most frequently visited places of pilgrimage in western Europe (JA, Diary and
Autobiography
, 2:418;
4:217–218).