Adams Family Correspondence, volume 4
1780-12-21
Mr. Thaxter and brother Charles wrote both to you the day before yesterday and as I had no subject to write upon, I did not write But I can now give you an account of our journey.
We dined on Monday at Haerlem and arrived at Leyden at Six oclock. We lodged at the Cour de
Hollande and saw Mr. Waterhouse that evening. The next day we went to hear a Medicinal lecture
by Professor Horn, we saw several experiments there. In the
afternoon we went to Hear a Law lecture by Professor Pessel.
1 Each lecture lasts an hour.
Yesterday Afternoon we moved from the Cour de Hollande to private lodgings in the same house in which Mr. Waterhouse boards our address is Mr. &c. by de Heer Welters, op de lange Burg, tegen over t Mantel Huis. Leyden.2
I was to day in company with the parson of the brownist Church Who seems to be a clever man, he is a scotch-man but does not pray for the king of England.3
I should be glad to have a pair of Scates they are of various prices from 3 Guilders to 3 Ducats those of a Ducat are as good as need to be but I should like to know whether you would chuse to have me give so much.
Mr. Waterhouse says that for riding I must have a pair leather breeches and a pair of boots. I should be glad if you would answer me upon that as soon as you receive this for there is a vacancy here 40which begins to morrow and in the vacancy is the best time to begin to learn to ride.
In the vacancy there will be no lectures at all but our Master will attend us all the while as much as when there is no vacancy.
I continue writing in Homer, the Greek Grammar and Greek testament every day.
Frederik Willem Pestel; see note 4 on (second) letter of JA to JQA, 23 Dec., below.
That is, at Mr. Welter's (more fully and correctly, F. Weller's or Willer's) in the street called Langebrug (Long Bridge) near the Mantle House. Recent efforts to identify the house have not succeeded, but it was not far from the main University building on the other side of the Rapenburg canal and still closer to the cathedral called the Pieterskerk (views of both buildings are reproduced in this volume) and to the Kloksteeg (Bell Lane), where Pastor John Robinson had ministered to his company of self-exiled English Separatists from 1609 to 1620 (and for some years afterward to those who did not leave for America); see the following note.
This passage shows JQA involved in at least a double confusion; and since
JA and AA also, like many other Americans—historians and tourists
alike—have been similarly confused, JQA's allusion to “the brownist Church” at
Leyden requires clarification. By the term “brownist” JQA unquestionably meant
the English Separatists, later commonly known as the Pilgrim Fathers; see the preceding note.
But to call John Robinson's company Brownists was not accurate, for although the eccentric
A worse confusion, and one that still troubles modern American pilgrims to Leyden, concerns
the place where Robinson's company worshiped. JQA implies that it was in a
building then still standing. A year and a half later JA was to write: “I have
been to that Church in Leyden where the Planters of Plymouth worshiped so many Years, and
felt a kind of Veneration for the Bricks and Timbers” (to Samuel Adams, 15 June 1782, NN:Bancroft Coll.). During her only visit to the Netherlands, AA also, of
course, paid her respects to the founders of Plymouth Colony: “ I would not omit to mention
that I visited the Church at Leyden in which our forefathers worshipd when they fled from
hierarchical tyranny and persecution. I felt a respect and veneration upon entering the
Doors, like what the ancients paid to their Druids” (to Mary Smith Cranch, 12 Sept. 1786,
MWA, printed repeatedly in CFA's
editions of AA, Letters, 1840
et seq.). But the fact is, and was,
that Robinson's company of Separatists had neither their own church building nor the use of
any other in Leyden. If they had, it would have been a matter of public record, and no such
record has been found by successive generations of diligent investigators. One of the first
and most competent of these, the British scholar George Sumner, writing in 1842, concluded
“that their religious assemblies were held in some hired hall, or in the house of Robinson,
their pastor,” which was in 1611 described as “large” 41(George
Sumner, “Memoirs of the Pilgrims at Leyden,” MHS,
Colls.
, sd ser., 9 [1846]:51–52). Sumner also identified
the source of the Adamses' and others' confusion as Rev. Thomas Prince's famous Annals, first published in Boston, 1736, which in a footnote
related that “when I was at Leyden in 1714, the most ancient people from their parents, told
me, that the city had such a value for them A
Chronological History of New-England, in the Form of Annals ..., Boston, 1826, p. 238).
This would make the cathedral church of St. Peter's (the great
Pieterskerk, 1593) the Pilgrims' church, for here, as Sumner found from its records, Robinson
was buried (although not in the chancel). What must have been pointed out by the Leydeners to
Prince and later American visitors as the Pilgrim Church was the English (often and perhaps
more correctly called the Scotch) Presbyterian or Reformed Church, which by coincidence had
been founded at the same time that Robinson's congregation came to Leyden. With state
approval and support, this church conducted public worship for almost two hundred years in a
chapel allotted to it in a church on the grounds of the Cloister of the Veiled Nuns or
Beguines (the Falyde Beguynhof). This church, as the Dutch scholar Plooij has pointed out,
was “a part of the Dutch Reformed Church, organized as a separate congregation merely on
account of the language used in its meetings.” It was “Presbyterian, nonepiscopal, and
Non-conformist,” but was “a State Church” (D. Plooij, The Pilgrim
Fathers from a Dutch Point of View, N.Y., 1932, p. 47). The building the city provided
backed up on the garden plot of Robinson's house on the Kloksteeg and in modern times has
been used as part of the University's library; eventually most of the Leyden Pilgrims who
stayed behind, including Robinson's widow and children, joined this congregation (same, p.
48, 90–91, 103). Sumner, who located the records of this church in Leyden for the period
1609–1807, concluded that “it is this chapel which, from being shown to American travellers
as the old church of the English, has, I believe, been sometimes supposed by them to have
been the church of the Pilgrims” (MHS, Colls.
, 3d ser., 9 [1846]:49; see also p. 63–69).
Clearly this is what happened in the case of the Adamses, and it is confirmed by the
extensive researches of the Dexters; a diagram in their monograph, though it is in part
conjectural, shows the close physical relationships among the Pieterskerk, John Robinson's
house (long since gone) where the Pilgrims conducted their private religious meetings without
state support or interference, the large lot behind it on which small houses for some of
Robinson's people were built, and the Beguine Cloister abutting that lot (Henry Martyn Dexter
and Morton Dexter, The England and Holland of the Pilgrims,
Boston and N.Y., 1905, p. 500 ff.).
JA eventually corrected himself (and Benjamin Waterhouse) on the distinction
between the followers of Browne and those of Robinson, in a letter to Water-house of 8 Jan.
1807 (MHi: Adams–Waterhouse Coll.; Ford, ed., Statesman and
Friend
, p. 39–40), but he persisted in believing that the church he had attended
in Leyden was the church of the Pilgrims.
The Scottish “parson of the brownist Church” whom JQA met was named William
Mitchell, according to the records printed by Sumner (MHS, Colls.
, 3d ser., 9
[1846]:66).
1780-12-21
I should have wrote before according to promiss, but have been prevented the use of my Eyes
by a Cold fixing there and Even now 42believe I
had better not write, but unless I do your Excelency may think it
too Great Condesention to inquire after the Cottagers, at Plimouth.
You have spent a week at Boston, and what think you of affairs now. I dare say you have
Collected many Curious annecdotes, and have had opportunities of observing much on the
Manners,
We have scarcly heard from the Capital since we left it, and so totally secluded is this
place from any thing that passes in the rest of the World, that only one Common News paper has
found Its way hither since we were at your house. Yet I have more than a Ballance for all the
Amusements the City or the Court can give, when my best Friend is
my Companion, my Children are well, and Domestic peace reigns under my Roof.
Have you found an opportunity to forward my letter to my son, and do you hear any thing to be Communicated from yours or their Good father.
I forgot to ask when at Braintree why you was so solicitous when at Plimouth for the Copy of a letter to my son on his reading of Chesterfeild. Whither Mrs. Adams had made any use of it, and what, and if she had done with it to return the Manuscript.2
Tomorrow is a sort of Festival in this town.3 I Wish you and yours and some other Choice Friends were hear to make it truly so.
A thousand Reflections might occupy the Mind on this occasion, and then I beleive I must keep them and hasten to shut my Eyes, least I should not be able to read your Epistles which I soon Expect.
A Word or two on Trade and Commerce. Have not sold a single Article nor Can. The town is
full of Hank a
What did my Freind do with a billet Left to her care for my sister. She never Recevd it.
Word partly covered by seal.
Mercy Warren's epistolary essay on Lord Chesterfield's letters to his natural son, 24 Dec. 1779, a copy of which re-mains among the Adams Papers. See AA to Mrs. Warren, 28 Feb. and 1 Sept., 43both in vol. 3 above, and, for the publication of the essay in a Boston newspaper, AA to Nathaniel Willis?, ante 4 Jan. 1781, below.
The earliest American annual patriotic “Festival,” Forefathers' Day was celebrated at
Plymouth on 22 Dec., beginning in 1769 under the convivial sponsorship of the Old Colony
Club. (The Club had a short life, but its role as sponsor was later taken over by the Pilgrim
Society.) The date chosen was supposed to be the anniversary of the landing of the Pilgrims
at “Forefathers' Rock” (later called Plymouth Rock), given by William Bradford in his History as 11 Dec. 1620. Forgetting, or not knowing, that the
difference between the Julian and Gregorian calendars in the 17th century was ten rather than
eleven days as in the 18th century, the promoters of the celebration made an error of a day
(it should have been the 21st), which later occasioned a warm dispute among antiquarians. The
records of the Old Colony Club, 1769–1773, are printed in MHS, Procs.
, 2d ser., 3
[1886–1887]:382–444. For the dispute over the date, in which JQA found himself
somewhat ludicrously involved, see same, vol. 20 [1906–1907]:237–238.
MS torn.