Diary of John Quincy Adams, volume 1
1785-05-14
At 5 in the morning I was in my Cabriolet, and never stopp'd anywhere untill I arrived at
Rennes, which was at 11. at night. By coming through a cross road I shortened the Journey 3
posts; so that I came only 13 ½ or 81. miles. The roads were so bad that I could not ride
more speedily. I trembled whenever I saw a town before me: for they are all paved in such a
manner, that it seems done on purpose to break every Carriage that passes through them: mine
with the heat of the Sun, and these dreadful roads is split in several places. At 7 posts
from Rennes I entered into the Province of Britanny: I expected to be visited very strictly;
but was agreeably disappointed: a Custom house officer, came, and ask'd if I had anything in
my baggage, contrary to the king's ordinances: on my answering no; he told my postilion to
drive on, without any further searching: and what surprised me most was that he did not beg
a half crown piece. At Rennes 268my
postilion first drove me, to the sign of the sheep, (au mouton)
which by all accounts is a very good house: but there was not one empty room in the house:
he then brought me, to such a tavern, as has not I really believe its equal in France. When
I went into the house a dirty, ill looking woman, led me up a rotten pair of stairs, into a
room, where there were a few remnants of paper hangings, which had formerly decorated it, a
table, which was as good as tables in France commonly are, a chair, in which I dare not sit
at ease, lest it should fall to pieces, a bed stead, that is of a piece with the rest, and
numberless cobwebs
compose the furniture of this apartment. I enquired whether there was any provisions in the house, and was answered, that I might have some bread and butter. I was glad to get any thing and ask'd for any thing they could find, but when they had made me wait an hour, they discovered that they had no butter in the house: I determined to go to bed but when I endeavoured to lock the door of my Chamber, I found it impracticable. I heartily wish'd myself out of the house, and went to bed, endeavouring to keep awake, as much as possible, notwithstanding, I was so much fatigued.
1785-05-15
Left the Hotel d'Artois, at about 5 in the morning, and was
determined not to stop again before I arrived at L'Orient; for I had no Inclination to lodge
in another house like those at Rennes and at Préz-en-Pail. At Josselin a small village,
about half way between Rennes and L'Orient I saw a mountabank, curiously dress'd riding
about in the Streets on horseback beating a drum, with a number of Peasants following him.
He made a stop, in a square, and began to harangue the assembly. I was in my Carriage at the
Post office, and while they were changing horses I was near enough to hear the speech of the
Quack. He had the honour to inform the gentlemen and Ladies that he was the greatest man in
the world at slight hand, that he had exhibited before, the kings of France, Spain and
Holland, to their astonishment and admiration. He continued a considerable time in the same
style, and concluded by saying, that he should this evening give the first representation of
Ovid's Metamorphoses, and as it was merely out of regard for them, and from no motive of
inter-269
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est that he meant to exhibit,1 his first places should be only 2 sous each. I could not help
laughing heartily to see the fellow go on in that manner while all the peasants round him
stood in admiration of his talents
At about 6 o'clock I arrived at LoEpée Royale, and to the Hotel
d'Artois, but there was no Chamber vacant in either. The Postillion then brought me to
the Hotel de la Marine, which is not a good house, but is a
Palace in comparison with those I stopp'd at on the way. The roads between Rennes and this
Place, are very hilly and rough, but are not I think, so bad as those, between Alençon and
Rennes. The Country looks very poor; and the fields seem to produce nothing: but the Country
people look neater and gayer than in any other part of France, and I saw less beggars than I
have commonly met with. What it is owing to I cannot say; but this Province boasts of
enjoying peculiar privileges, and of having a greater portion of liberty than any other. The
Bretons say that their Parliament is the firmest and most respectable in the kingdom: how
far this is true I know not, but it is certain, that the Parliament of Rennes have
distinguished themselves, upon several occasions, when the others did not show the same
courage.
The Expenses of a single person from Paris to L'Orient, in a Cabriolet, the carriage that is commonly made use of in France, for travelling, are as follows.
| liv: | ||
| Hire of a Cabriolet | 120. | |
| 60 posts. 2 horses at 30 sols per post, each | 180. | |
| the 3d. horse, about 12 posts | 18. | |
| Postillions 1 livre per Post | 60 | |
| Lodging on the road, and the 2 posts Royal | 32 | |
| Total. | 410. |
If two persons travel together they take only three horses, and the expences being thus divided, will not amount to more than 300 livres each. The first thing a traveller should purchase, when he arrives in France, is a Post Book. They are published every six months and contain every information relative to travelling Post, necessary. They are to be found at every bookseller's shop.
Punctuation supplied.