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Diary of Charles Francis Adams, 1863

Sunday 9th

9 August 1863

Tuesday 11th

11 August 1863
10 August 1863
Monday 10th

I called Brooks at an early hour and we went and took a bath in the waters of Loch Achray. They are rather cold but clear and bracing. After breakfast we left this point for Loch Katrine there to take a Steamer to Inversnaid. It began to rain and when it held up, to blow with some fury. This, I am told, is better luck than average. However picturesque a place may be, this attendant of bad weather spoils the enjoyment. We saw the place which Scott selects for the retreat of Ellen and her father, Douglas. It is called Ellen’s Isle and will do for a fiction. Then we passed around the other side of Ben venue, which is the striking thing of all. There is another prominence called Ben An, but it looked more commonplace. arrived at Inversnaid there was a rush for the seats in the vehicles to take us five miles to Loch Lowend. The consequence was that all were taken before we got there. As I was not disposed to enter into any struggle I waited quietly for the Innkeeper to devise a plan of conveyance. He did so by accommodating us in two dog carts, and leaving the servants to come in the next trip. The horses were good and we enjoyed the drive better than if in a crowd. At the other end which rejoiced in a deeply guttural name we embarked in a steamer on Loch Lowend to pass to Balloch at the Souther extreme. This scenery is much praised, and like all such things it falls433 below the expectation. Ben Lowend was in a cloud and resolutely declined to show himself. Moreover the wind was high so that there was not much comfort. I like Lake George better, or Lake Champlain. At Ballock we took the train to Glasgow, and established ourselves comfortably at the Queen’s Hotel. The news of a telegram to me from London startled me at first, but it turned not only an assurance from Mr Moran that there was nothing. I sallied out at once with the children to see the Cathedral. It is an imposing edifice, but much less ornamented inside or out than usual. The effect of the nave and choir thrown into one is fine. There are crypts far more spacious and striking than any I have yet seen. It has been thoroughly restored, and it now serves for the use of the Scotch Church. There is a good chapter House, but no cloisters. In the evening I strolled with Brooks into the main thoroughfares. They were filled with common looking people standing about. Glasgow is a great hive of industry. The operations however look needy and shabby. It is a very thriving place, but I should not care to dwell in it.

Cite web page as:

Charles Francis Adams, Sr., [date of entry], diary, in Charles Francis Adams, Sr.: The Civil War Diaries (Unverified Transcriptions). Boston: Massachusetts Historical Society, 2015. http://www.masshist.org/publications/cfa-civil-war/view?id=DCA63d222